Bracken
The bracken society forms the most extensive
plant community on the island. Ground- ivy is the most regular
member of this community, being most abundant where the bracken,
after midsummer, provides dense aerial cover. This it does in
sheltered parts of the north and east of the island and in dry
valleys, and along the borders of the field- walls. Bracken is an
encroaching and invading plant on Skomer. During the years of high
farming of the island in the last century it was confined to the
waste land and the uncultivable foot of the hedge walls. Today the
underground extension of its rhizomes goes on apace towards the
centre of each field (except in certain fields which we ploughed in
1946, and in some which were ploughed by the owner in 1948).
Bracken cannot thrive where it is exposed to the
severest winds, and therefore, as on Skokholm, the western and
southern part of the island is almost free from this plant, or when
it is present there it is sparse and stunted. Bracken must have a
fairly well- drained and deep soil, and is absent from the wet
hollows and the rocky outcrops. As, however, it is late in leafing,
lesser celandines and ground-ivy are able to flower and seed in the
spring sunshine; so also does the buebell (Scilla non-scripta)
which follows late in April and May, and is seen to be closely
attached to the bracken association wherever its blooms are
thickest. The bluebell, normally a woodland plant, enjoys the
moisture present in the soil protected from summer drought by the
bracken, and its bulbs mature below ground as its spear-like leaves
wither under the spreading fronds. This shade in summer and the mat
of dead bracken foliage in winter is said to have a toxic effect on
other plants in sheltered areas of the mainland, but this is
evidently not so pronounced on the islands where the bracken never
grows so tall, and where severe gales in winter disperse or flatten
the withered foliage; we find, therefore, that many other and
later-flowering plants survive (though they may not thrive) in the
shade of a dense bracken community. These are especially: wood-sage
(Teucrium Scorodonia), Yorkshire fog (Holcus lanatus), and the
fescue grasses (Festuca ovina and F. rubra).
Along its perimeter the bracken forms much less
than full aerial cover, and shares the ground with the
last-mentioned species, which constitute a rough turf before the
truer open grassland is reached. Mingled with them, and at times
dominating them, are the two sorrels (Rumex Acetosa and R.
Acetosella). Patches of nettle (Urtica dioica), ragwort (Senecio
Jacobaea), and some buttercup (Rananculus repens) are usually found
here close to the entrances of the numerous rabbitand bird-burrows
which fringe the bracken, and evidently provide in the excavated
soil mingled with animal droppings sufficient nitrogen to satisfy
the food requirements of these rank-growing plants.
Grassland
From time to time Skomer has of late years been
grazed by a few cattle and sheep, but not sufficiently to cause any
changes in the grassland, and in the year of our survey this was
agriculturally very degenerate, and over-grazed by rabbits. Apart
from the changes wrought by the steady encroachment of the bracken,
it appeared to have reached a stable and mature (or climax)
condition, i.e. in equilibrium with the rabbit- grazing. The more
level inland pasture is composed principally of grasses: fescue (F.
ovina and F. rubra) with Poa annua, P. pratensis and P. trivialis,
and Agrostis tenuis. Widely dispersed colonies of ragwort and
thistles (Cirsium arvense and C. vulgare) frequently appear. There
are in fact few square yards of this pasture which have not some
taller plant interrupting the level- grazed sward. Yarrow (Achillea
Millefolium) is not uncommon, and small and sometimes pure
concentrations of sheep's sorrel (Rumex Acetosella) occur. In the
spring dog violets (Viola Riyiniana) brighten the degenerate sward
before the grass shoots appear through the winter cushion of moss
and withered herbage.
The nature of Skomer's pasture changes where the
land rises to a dry wind-swept slope or where it covers thinly the
underlying rock. Here we find a springy turf of sheep's fescue,
with plants of wild white clover (Trifolium repens), and strong
colonies of bird's-foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus). Associated
with the well-drained pasture are the scorpion-grasses (Myosotis
collina and M. versicolor), and as summer advances, a host of other
dwarf plants come into flower here: we find eyebright (Euphrasia
officinalis), two bedstraws (Galium saxatile and G. verum),
tormentil (Potentilla erecta common, and P. procumbens), centaury
(Centaurium umbellatum), milkworts (Polygala vulgaris, P.
serpyllifolia), pearlworts (Sagina subulata, S. procumbens), and
speedwells (Veronica officinalis, V. arvensis, V. Chamaedrys).
These make a mosaic of tiny low and trailing flowers from late May
to the end of July, by which time most of them have seeded, and the
area, much dried as a rule by the summer sun and wind, is a brown-
green relieved by the yellow discs of the hawkbit (Leontodon
Leysseri).
The dry, short, rabbit-nibbled pastures, so
springy and pleasant to walk over, even on mornings of heavy dew,
are broken up by the protrusions of rock on higher ground, and only
drought-resisting plants survive here. This is a region largely
dominated by ling (Calluna vulgaris) and heather (Erica cinerea),
but only in very few areas is this heath partnership a pure one.
Usually it is shared with other plants of dry situations. Patches
of sweet-smelling wild thyme (Thumus Serpyllum) delight the
strolling botanist, who observes that it is associated with such
other low-growing sun-loving species as English stonecrop (Sedum
anglicum), scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis), lesser skullcap
(Scutellaria minor), pearlwort (Sagina procumbens), rock-spurrey
(Spergularia rupicola) and occasional colonies of bird's-foot
trefoil. But the region of heath is so mixed in topographical
character that any attempt to classify the whole into strict
ecological communities breaks down; rather it is, like so much of
Skomer, a patchwork of minute consociations in which, here and
there, the observer finds the same pattern appearing. Thus in a few
slightly damper parts of the heath some of the species of the drier
ground exist side by side with louse-wort (Pedicularis sylvatica),
wood-sage, Yorkshire fog (Holcus lanatus), red fescue (Festuca
rubra), and the sorrels. And again, where the rock thrusts clear to
the surface, with only shallow pockets of earth to give roothold to
the ling and heather, we find wall pennywort (Cotylelon Umbilicus-
veneris) (also in damp sites), buck's- horn plantain (Plantago
Coronopus), sea stork's bill (Erodium maritimum), and in the autumn
the sheep's bit scabious (Jasione montana). Some of the heath
extends almost into the marshy areas of the central valleys; some
merges into the grassy plateaux above and towards the cliffs, where
the fescue grasses fringe the areas of thrift (Armeria maritima).
This high ground has few showy plants except in spring, when the
charming vernal squill (Scilla verna), a species sufficiently rare
in England to make it a special object for English visitors to see,
is a common flower on Skomer in such situations.
Coastland
As the south and west cliffs are approached the
typical fescue sward gives way to the thrift, which dominates the
cliff-top for a wide distance here in an area covering the burrows
of the vast colonies of the puffins. Along the cliff edge the
thrift covers this ground frequently in pure huge cushions as much
as a yard in diameter and ten to fifteen inches in height. Often
these soft masses form a roof of green thatch to the entrances to
the homes of the puffins; and they delight the observer with their
delicately coloured large blooms in May and June, and at all times
provide a most comfortable couch. The dry, windy, salty conditions
of the cliff-top are too exacting for most other plants; thrift
thrives in spite of the salt rather than, as has been suggested by
some botanists, because of it. Thrift grows on the edge of
sheltered inland saltings in Pembrokeshire, where it is frequently
submerged for short periods by high tides. But it also grows on
mountain tops far from salt spray.
Associated with thrift but unable to thrive in
dry ground, the seacampion (Silene maritima) occupies the
depressions between the sea-pink's cushions. It stands exposure
well provided there is sufficient soil and moisture, such as that
provided in depressions, crevices, and slopes with a northerly
aspect. On Skomer, therefore, it grows most luxuriantly on the Neck
and on the eastern and northern slopes, clifftops and ledges, often
in association with scurvy-grass (Cochlearie officinalis).
The difference in the wealth and luxuriance of
the plant life of the north-east and the south-west cliffs of the
island is, in fact, remarkable. The wind- and sun-dried south- west
was beautiful while the flowering of the sea- pinks lasted; but
afterwards there was little to be seen. An examination of the
ground honeycombed by bird-burrows revealed islands of dry turf
composed of minute plants of buck'shorn plantain, sea stork's bill
and pearlwort (Sagina procumbens and subulata) growing at the
landward frontier of the pure societies of thrift. Contrast this
with the flora of the broad ledges, about one hundred feet above
the sea, which, sheltered by the high castellations of rocks above,
run between the Garland Stone and North Haven on the north-east
coast. Protected from all but the rare north- east winds, and only
receiving the sun's rays early on summer mornings or late in the
evening, and much visited by nesting seabirds whose droppings have
helped to provide rich plant food, these moist and fertile ledges
support in spring a luxuriant concentration of red campion
Melandrium dioicum) and sea-campion (Silene maritima), bluebells,
scurvy-grass (Cochlearia officinalis) and chickweed (Stellaria
media), the last-named selecting the bare nitrogenous patches
trodden by gulls and other birds. These are followed by flowering
orpine (Sedum telephium), honeysuckle (Lonicera Periclymenum),
sea-beet (Beta maritima), buck's- horn plantain (Plantago Coronopus
var. maritima) and sea plantain (P. maritima). Ivy (Hedera helix),
blackthorn (Prunus spinosa), and blackberry (Rubus fruticosus),
with some elder (Sambucus nigra), cover part of the steeper faults
or chimneys in the walls of these ledges, and among plants of rank
growth noted here we recorded woody nightshade (Solanum Dulcamara),
hogweed (Heracleum Sphondylium), hemp agrimony (Eupatorium
cannabinum), figwort (Scrophularia nodosa), foxglove (Digitalis
purpurea), and ferns: lady fern (Atthyrium Filix femina) and male
fern (Dryopteris Filix-mas). The rock- walls were covered with
lichens, especially Usnea sp. whose greenish-grey beard- like
strands quite disguise the true colour of the basalt.
These delightful cliff-gardens of Skomer were the
frequent resort of observers who sought to escape for a while from
the blustering south-westerly gales; the ornithologist who wandered
there in the spring found himself looking up at the grey rock face
where gull, raven, chough, peregrine falcon and fulmar petrel
patrolled; and below him the sheer cliffs were filled with the
cries and flighting of nesting kittiwakes, guillemots and
razorbills. The spongy turf itself contained the burrows of puffin
and shearwater, although the entrances to these underground nests
were partly or wholly concealed by the vigorous growth of the plant
community.
These ledges, too, had been discovered by the
cattle which in 1946 were pastured on Skomer; and their owner had
great difficulty in preventing the descent of the beasts to this
shelter and rich grazing. He had experienced several losses due to
the heavy animals slipping or jostling each other when turning on
the unfenced edges of the precipice. The effect of the tramp!ing
and dunging by the cattle was plain in the virile growth of the
vegetation; the nitrogen content had been increased in a soil
already well supplied with seabird guano, and with the moisture and
humus provided by layers of decaying vegetation laid down each
winter.
Another cliff plant association is to be found
between the extremes of the luxuriant flora of the north-east and
the xeromorphic vegetation of the exposed south-west. In partly
sheltered situations such as those offered by breaks in the cliffs
(usually occurring on the exposed west and south coasts), wherever
there is sufficient moisture conserved by some shade and by natural
water collecting in the rocky soil of declivities, there appears in
spring a community which temporarily covers a surface that had been
swept bare of living vegetation by salt storms and perhaps by
surface water in winter: chickweeds (Cerastium viscosum and
Stellaria media), mayweed (Matricaria inodora fleshy form),
shoreweed (Littorella uniflora), Poa annua and the cliff- loving
orache (Atriplex hastata and A. Portulacoides). Each of these
species may occur as pure societies in such a terrain. They are
also found as members of other plant communities elsewhere on the
island. Stellaria media occurred in a great variety of situations,
but usually where the soil had been bared and enriched by
vertebrate droppings. Darling found that Stellaria media exhibited
'a refulgent growth of about twenty acres growing to a foot in
height' on North Rona where Atlantic seals had trampled and bred in
previous autumns. In situations with sufficient soil mantle over
the rocks where seabirds breed on Skomer (notably also on
Middleholm where there is a large colonrof breeding gulls) this
chickweed grows with a like abundance, especially during and after
a spell of wet weather.
Heath
Next we may consider the region of boggy heath
and wet land which is a marked feature of the two chief valleys or
declivities in the central plateau of the island, which we called
the north and the south valleys. In each there is a headwater pond,
feeding a small stream flowing in an easterly direction, that of
the north valley being the greater, and never drying completely in
years of drought. This north pond has some of the commoner plants
usually found on exposed waters: yellow flag (Iris Pseudacorus), a
water crowfoot (Rananculus sp.), amphibious persicaria (Polygonum
amphibium), floating pond-weed (Potamogeton polygonifolius), water
purslane (Peplis portula), marshworts (Apium noliflorum and var.
ochreatum), and floating club-rush (Scirpus fluitans). The water of
this pond was much disturbed by constant wind and by great numbers
of gulls which visited it all day long for the purpose of washing
their plumage; its shore was a well- trampled mud during the
breeding season of the gulls in 1946 as the water receded in
summer. On both sides of the little stream flowing from this pond,
however, there was a region of wet spongy ground full of varied
plant life. Here mosses and rushes dominated: Juncus articulatus,
an extremely variable species, seemed to be as numerous as the
common rush (J. communis) of which the closely related J.
conglomeratus and J. effusus were collected by Dr. W. J. L.
Sladen.
Associated with the rushes were the delicate pink
bog pimpernel (Anagallis tenella), marsh St. John's-wort (Hypericum
eloles), cuckoo-flower (Carlamine pratensis), marsh bedstraw
(Galium palustre), marsh pennywort (Hydrocotyle vulgaris), water-
mint (Mentha aquatica) bog stitchwort (Stellaria alsine), water-
pepper (Polygonum Hydropiper), skullcaps (Scutellaria galericulata
and S. minor), and some club-rushes listed in Appendix 2. There
were patches of moor-grass (Molinia caerulea) in this community of
the stream-side rushes, but in general Molinia seems to prefer land
which is slightly less waterlogged (at least in summer); near the
south pond there was a large region dominated by the Molinia, with
other plants of the rush community much less in evidence.
The land occupied by the rush community drained
into the stream which had, during winter rains, cut for itself a
track over the bedrock, and nearer the sea the valley assumed the
appearance of a miniature gorge, complete with waterfalls. Tall
vegetation existed in the shelter of the gorge; where moisture was
abundant hemlock dropwort (Oenenthe crocata), hogweed (Heracleum
Sphondylium), wild angelica (Angelica sylvestris), meadowsweet
(Filipenlula Ulmaria), and marsh thistle (Cirsium palustre)
flourished, together with many ferns and some purple loosestrife
(Lythrum Salicaria). The slopes above the stream were well drained,
dry and sheltered, and here grew the tallest vegetation on the
island: stunted elder and blackthorn bushes, mingled with trailing
bramble, tall bracken, and a few ancient furze bushes (Ulex
europaeus). There were many foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea) in both
the north and south valleys, and about the rocky outcrops.
In the stream itself watercress (Nasturtium
officinale), brookweed (Samolus Valerandi), water-starwort
(Callitriche sp.) and water-blinks (Montia chondrosperma) were
found in suitable sites. Many small plants grew among mosses on the
banks overhanging parts of the island streams. The eye was pleased
with showy masses of primroses from early spring until well into
June. Water forget-me-not (Myosotis caespitosa) mingled with lesser
spearwort (Ranunculus Flammula) in a harmonious blue and yellow
pattern. There were ragged robin (Lychnis Flos-cuculi), and
cross-leaved heath (Erica Tetralix) to be found, but not
abundantly. Where the ground was moist but not saturated, even far
from streams, silverweed (Potentilla anserina) was locally
dominant. The common yellow sedge (Carex flava) and the carnation
sedge (C. panicea), together with the field wood- rush (Luzula
campestris), were found here in spring.
Farmstead
The last but not the least variable environment
which there is space to describe here is that of the human
habitation- the island farmhouse, buildings and yards. When we
lived on Skomer these had been abandoned completely for five years
and there was little trace left of the 'artificial' flora which
springs up wherever man and his domestic animals settle. One
fuchsia bush (Fuchsia sp.) and one black poplar(Populus sp.) were
the only surviving trees in the courtyard facing the house, but a
great number of cultivated narcissi (Narcissus pseudo- narcissus)
flourished exceedingly, and gladdened our hearts on our arrival in
March when all else about these buildings was a scene of neglect
and decay, and armies of rank weeds were springing up everywhere.
Hemlock (Conium maculatum), hogweed (Heracleum Sphondylium),
burdock (Arctium sp.), great dock (Rumex crispus), ragwort (Senecio
Jacobaea), and nettle (Urtica dioica) would have choked the
entrances and exits to the yards and buildings if we had not cut
down much of this growth during the summer.
The garden at the back of the house was taken in
hand and tractor-ploughed by the chief warden, supported by two
keen farmer-gardeners in Joan Keighley and the skipper. It was
harrowed with a wooden 'scrubber' made out of driftwood planks,
cleaned, and planted with potatoes, lettuces, cabbages, etc. But
throughout the summer an interesting if exasperating struggle
ensued with two aggressive plants which had persisted since the
last cultivations years before: false oatgrass (Arrhenatherum
elatius) and lesser swine-cress (Coronopus didymus). The
cultivations in fact brought them to light and life just when they
were on the point of being overpowered by the thickening tussocks
of cock's foot grass (Dactylis glomerata) and Yorkshire fog (Holcus
lanatus). As summer advanced, a few plants of groundsel (Senecio
vulgaris), petty spurge (Euphorbia Peplus), charlock (Brassica sp.)
and red dead-nettle (Lamium purpureum), appeared, together with
quite a representative collection of the mouse-ear chickweeds
(Cerastium viscosum, C. semidecandrum, C. tetrandrum and C.
vulgatum).
On the yard walls, both tops and sides,
inaccessible to rabbits and grazing animals, in the cracks between
the stones and the lime mortar, flourished a typical dry, rock-
loving flora. This consisted of English stonecrop (Sedum anglicum),
rock- spurrey (Spergularia rupicola), long-rooted cat's-ear
(Hypochaeris radicata), dandelion (Taraxacum officinale),
buck's-horn plantain (Plantago coronopus), ribwort plantain (P.
Ianceolata), Danish scurvy-grass (Cochlearia danica), pennywort
(Cotyledon Umbilicus- veneris), wild thyme (Thymus Serpyllum) and
lesser clover (Trifolium dubium) - these last two probably benefit
from the lime content of the mortar. Two grasses were common on
these walls - Poa annua and sweet vernal grass (Anthoxanthum
odoratum), and some spleenworts: maiden-hair spleenwort (Asplenium
Trichomanes) and wall-rue (A. Ruta- muraria).